Expedition Dates: 28 July – 5 August 2026
Deep in western Uganda lies Semuliki National Park, one of the country’s most remarkable birding destinations. Situated between approximately 670 and 760 metres above sea level, this lowland tropical forest forms the easternmost extension of the vast Ituri Forest of the Congo Basin. Its unique location supports an exceptional diversity of Congo-Guinea forest birds, including species that are rarely encountered elsewhere in East Africa.
For birdwatchers, Semuliki offers an opportunity to explore a forest unlike any other in Uganda. But our expedition was about more than adding new species to a birding checklist.
We had come with a particular mission: to search for two elusive bird species that had reportedly not been recorded in Semuliki for almost 50 years — Sassi’s Greenbul and Chestnut Owlet.
Our team consisted of seven local birders brought together by curiosity, determination and a shared passion for exploring Uganda’s forests.
Over nine days, we conducted systematic point counts, submitted eBird checklists, revisited locations associated with historical records of our target species and explored additional areas with suitable habitats.
We also contributed to the Big Year of African Sounds initiative by recording bird calls and songs throughout the expedition.
By the end of our journey, we had documented 222 bird species and obtained sound recordings of 100 species.
Although neither Sassi’s Greenbul nor Chestnut Owlet was found, Semuliki rewarded our efforts with extraordinary encounters, new discoveries and valuable field observations.
Day 1: Listening for the Nkulengu Rail
We arrived in Semuliki National Park in the late afternoon, at approximately 5:00 p.m.
After settling in, we walked towards the Female Hot Springs, where we held a team briefing to discuss our search strategy, survey methods and plans for the following days.
One of our priorities was to listen for the elusive Nkulengu Rail, a secretive forest bird whose distinctive calls can sometimes reveal its presence even when the bird itself remains hidden.
We listened carefully, hoping to hear its call during the evening.
But the forest remained silent.
The Nkulengu Rail never called.
It was an early reminder that birding in Semuliki requires patience, persistence and a willingness to accept that some species will remain hidden despite our best efforts.
Day 2: Exploring the Kirumya Trail
The following morning, we set out with our packed lunch of Rolexes — Uganda’s popular chapati-and-egg rolls — ready for a full day of birding along the Kirumya Trail.
The trail led us deep into Semuliki’s lowland forest, where towering trees, dense undergrowth and a rich variety of forest sounds created excellent conditions for bird exploration.
Every section of the trail presented another opportunity to encounter something unusual.
Among the day’s notable bird species were:
- Verreaux’s Eagle-Owl
- Red-billed Dwarf Hornbill
- Black-casqued Hornbill
- Velvet-mantled Drongo
- Red-tailed Bristlebill
- Xavier’s Greenbul
- White-throated Greenbul
- Brown Illadopsis
- Fire-crested Alethe
- Blue-billed Malimbe
- Crested Malimbe
- Western Nicator
- Lowland Sooty Boubou
- Eastern Long-tailed Hornbill
- Chestnut-capped Flycatcher
Although neither of our two target species appeared, the diversity of birds encountered along the Kirumya Trail reminded us why Semuliki National Park remains one of Uganda’s most important destinations for specialist forest birding.
Day 3: Two Teams, Two Directions
On the third day, we decided to divide into two teams to increase our chances of locating Sassi’s Greenbul and Chestnut Owlet.
My team headed towards the Red Monkey Trail, while the second team explored the Burondo area along the forest edge.
This approach allowed us to cover more ground and investigate different habitats simultaneously.
Both teams encountered several interesting bird species, including:
- Red-rumped Tinkerbird
- Capuchin Babbler
- Swamp Palm Bulbul
- Orange-cheeked Waxbill
- Rufous-sided Broadbill
- Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye
Figure 1: Yellow-bellied Wattle-eye (Dyaphorophyia concreta). Photo by Jonathan.
Each encounter added to our understanding of the forest’s birdlife. Yet the two species that had brought us to Semuliki remained elusive.
The search continued.
Searching the Burondo Forest Edge
The following day, we reunited and concentrated our efforts on the forest edges around Burondo, particularly in areas that appeared suitable for Chestnut Owlet.
Despite carefully exploring the habitat, we were unsuccessful in locating the species.
However, the day produced one of the most memorable encounters of the entire expedition.
While walking near dense thickets, we heard an Olive Ibis calling from the tree canopy.
We moved carefully towards the sound, listening closely to determine its position.
Although the bird remained difficult to observe, we managed to obtain good sound recordings of its calls.
We also recorded the vocalisations of the Lowland Sooty Boubou.
For an expedition focused partly on documenting the acoustic diversity of Semuliki, these recordings were especially valuable.
They demonstrated how sound recording can contribute to bird surveys, particularly in dense tropical forests where many species are heard more frequently than they are seen.
Two Nights Camping Deep Inside Semuliki Forest
One of the most important decisions we made during the expedition was to spend two nights camping deep inside the forest.
Many birding visits to Semuliki are relatively short and are often combined with other destinations in western Uganda.
Consequently, some of the more distant forest trails receive relatively little attention.
The trails are also widely separated, making it difficult to reach certain areas and return to established accommodation within a single day.
Camping inside the forest allowed us to explore these remote habitats more thoroughly and begin our surveys much earlier in the morning.
Our campsite was located near Oxbow Lake.
The Forest After Dark
Our first night in the forest was particularly memorable.
As darkness settled over the campsite, the surrounding forest came alive with sounds.
The calls of Pel’s Fishing Owl and African Wood Owl echoed through the trees, creating an unforgettable atmosphere.
At dusk, a pair of Hartlaub’s Ducks flew over Oxbow Lake.
The following day, Jonathan was fortunate enough to photograph the ducks as they swam on a small pond deep inside the forest.
Figure 2: White-bellied Kingfisher (Alcedo leucogaster). Photo by Jonathan.
Figure 3: Hartlaub’s Duck (Pteronetta hartlaubii). Photo by Jonathan.
Early Morning Birding and Forest Discoveries
Camping within the forest gave us the advantage of starting our birding activities during the first hours of daylight, when many forest species are particularly active.
It also allowed us to spend more time searching for birds that might otherwise be missed during shorter visits.
One of the outstanding highlights was the Long-tailed Hawk, a remarkable forest raptor associated with the high canopy.
Other notable species recorded during our two days of camping included:
- Chestnut-breasted Nigrita
- Icterine Greenbul
- Xavier’s Greenbul
- Yellow Longbill
- Yellow-throated Nicator
- White-bellied Kingfisher
Figure 4: Long-tailed Hawk (Urotriorchis macrourus). Photo by Jonathan Onongo.
Although our target species remained undetected, the experience reinforced the importance of spending sufficient time in remote forest habitats.
Some of the most rewarding observations came from places that are difficult to reach during conventional day trips.
Wildlife Encounters Beyond the Birds
Our expedition was primarily focused on birds, but Semuliki’s forests offered encounters with several fascinating mammals.
One of the most memorable was a brief sighting of a Bay Duiker.
This extremely shy forest antelope crossed directly in front of us as we walked quietly along a trail.
The encounter lasted only a few moments, but it was a wonderful reminder of how much wildlife can remain hidden within the forest.
Other mammals encountered during the expedition included:
- Semuliki Red Colobus
- Dent’s Monkey
- De Brazza’s Monkey
- Red-tailed Monkey
- Olive Baboon
These encounters added another dimension to our exploration.
Moving slowly and quietly through the forest allowed us to notice wildlife that might easily have been overlooked.
It also reinforced the ecological importance of Semuliki National Park, not only for its exceptional birdlife but also for the wider diversity of animals that depend on its forest habitats.
The Final Day: One Last Search
On our final day, we began making our way out of the forest towards Bumaga Campsite.
As we walked, we were rewarded with excellent views of the African Piculet, a tiny woodpecker associated with lowland forest habitats.
We also recorded Grant’s Bluebill, adding another memorable species to our expedition list.
But our search for Chestnut Owlet was not quite over.
During our journey back to Kampala from Bundibugyo, we passed through the Toro-Semuliki Wildlife Reserve and made one final attempt to locate the species.
Once again, we were unsuccessful.
Despite the disappointment of not finding either of our two main targets, the expedition had already produced a wealth of valuable observations and unforgettable experiences.
The Reality of Birding Fieldwork in Semuliki
Fieldwork in a tropical rainforest is rarely straightforward.
Throughout the expedition, we encountered heavy rainfall, flooded trails and dense vegetation.
Some paths had become so overgrown that we had to cut our way through the bush to continue our surveys.
Other sections were flooded, forcing us to wade through water while trying to keep our equipment and belongings dry.
There were plenty of humorous moments, too.
Whenever water found its way into someone’s gumboots, we jokingly said that the person had “drunk water.”
One after another, members of the team experienced this familiar inconvenience.
We laughed, adjusted our boots and continued walking.
These moments became part of the expedition’s story.
They reminded us that meaningful field research requires teamwork, determination, patience and a sense of humour.
Expedition Results: 222 Bird Species and 100 Sound Recordings
Although we did not locate Sassi’s Greenbul or Chestnut Owlet, our nine-day expedition produced several important results.
The expedition’s key achievements included:
- Recording 222 bird species across the surveyed habitats.
- Obtaining sound recordings of 100 bird species.
- Exploring historical observation sites associated with our two target species.
- Surveying additional forest habitats with potentially suitable conditions.
- Documenting notable forest birds, including Olive Ibis, Long-tailed Hawk, Hartlaub’s Duck and African Piculet.
- Recording valuable observations of mammals and other forest wildlife.
- Gaining experience that will help guide the next phase of our search.
For me personally, the expedition also produced seven lifers — seven bird species I had never recorded before.
But beyond the personal achievements, the greatest value of the expedition lay in the observations, recordings and field experience we gained.
Our work helped document birdlife in areas of Semuliki that receive relatively little attention from visiting birders.
It also highlighted the importance of continued exploration and acoustic monitoring in Uganda’s lowland forests.
Why the Search Must Continue
Sassi’s Greenbul and Chestnut Owlet remained our primary targets throughout the expedition.
Despite extensive searching, neither species was detected.
However, an unsuccessful search does not necessarily mean that a species is absent from an area.
Tropical forests are complex environments, and some birds can be exceptionally difficult to detect because of their behaviour, habitat preferences, vocal activity or naturally low encounter rates.
Our experience in Semuliki demonstrated the value of combining different survey approaches, exploring historical observation sites and spending extended periods in suitable habitats.
The observations and lessons from this expedition will help us refine our approach during the next phase of the search.
We hope to return with greater knowledge of the forest, improved search strategies and the same determination that brought us here in the first place.
Perhaps next time, Semuliki will finally reveal one — or even both — of the remarkable birds we came to find.
Gratitude and Acknowledgements
Figure 5: The team of birders who braved the rain during the expedition.
Figure 6: Expedition team members, left to right — Alfred, Davis, Phionah, Jonathan, Judith, Alex and Martin.
This expedition would not have been possible without the generous support of several organisations and individuals.
We sincerely thank the American Bird Conservancy and the Bird Conservation Fund for providing financial support that helped make the expedition possible.
We are equally grateful to the Cornell Lab of Ornithology for providing sound-recording equipment that enabled us to document the acoustic diversity of Semuliki’s forests.
Our appreciation also goes to the Uganda Wildlife Authority for permitting us to undertake this fieldwork in Semuliki National Park.
Finally, we thank our dedicated team of birders — Jonathan Onongo, Davis Barya, Phiona, Martin, Alex Turyashemererwa and Alfred Kirungi — together with the ranger guides who supported us throughout the expedition.
Your commitment, teamwork and enthusiasm made this journey both productive and enjoyable.
The birds may have kept their secrets, but the forest gave us something equally meaningful: discoveries, valuable recordings, unforgettable memories and a deeper appreciation of Uganda’s remarkable biodiversity.
The search continues…