A journey of birds, wildlife and community across one of East Africa’s least-explored regions
By Judith Mirembe, Uganda Women Birders’ Club
West Nile is one of Uganda’s most scenic and culturally rich regions, yet it rarely features on the country’s established tourism circuits. Located in northwestern Uganda, bordering South Sudan and the Democratic Republic of the Congo, the region is shaped by wildlife reserves, forests, wetlands, the River Nile and dramatic landscapes.
For birdwatchers, wildlife enthusiasts and adventurous travellers, West Nile offers remarkable opportunities to explore places that remain relatively unfamiliar to many visitors.
Without a fixed itinerary, three of us — Davis, Herbert and I — set out to discover this less-explored part of Uganda.
For me, it was my first journey beyond Murchison Falls National Park, and I was particularly excited about the birds, landscapes and communities we would encounter along the way.
Through Murchison Falls National Park
We left Kampala on the afternoon of 26 August 2026 and travelled north through Murchison Falls National Park, Uganda’s largest national park.
The park supports an impressive diversity of wildlife, including elephants, giraffes, buffaloes, lions, leopards and more than 450 recorded bird species.
It takes its name from Murchison Falls, where the River Nile is forced through a narrow gorge approximately seven metres wide before plunging about 43 metres into the turbulent waters below.
Our journey took us through the Kaniyo Pabidi section of Budongo Forest, on the southern side of the park.
Gradually, the dense forest gave way to open savannah, scattered acacia trees and towering Borassus palms.
Just as we completed the transition from forest to savannah, a female leopard suddenly crossed the road directly in front of our vehicle.
We were thrilled, but none of us managed to take a photograph.
Leopards rarely wait for cameras.
We crossed the Nile using the bridge inside the park and continued through Pakwach and Nebbi before reaching Arua, one of West Nile’s principal urban centres.
That evening, we enjoyed dinner with our friend Boniface Kadabara, a local tour operator who also helped arrange our accommodation.
Ajai Wildlife Reserve: A Conservation Story Reborn
The following morning, we travelled approximately 43 kilometres from Arua to Ajai Wildlife Reserve, where we planned to spend the night.
Named after the historic local leader King Ajai, the reserve holds an important place in Uganda’s wildlife conservation history.
Ajai was once a stronghold for the northern white rhinoceros. By 1965, it reportedly supported around 60 of Uganda’s remaining 80 rhinos.
Unfortunately, poaching and insecurity eventually led to the disappearance of its rhino population by the early 1980s.
Today, Ajai is the focus of renewed conservation efforts.
In January 2026, the Uganda Wildlife Authority transferred four southern white rhinos from Ziwa Rhino Sanctuary to Ajai Wildlife Reserve as part of a wider programme intended to establish a breeding population of 20 rhinos.
The reserve is also the focus of efforts to restore other wildlife populations, including Uganda kobs, buffaloes, zebras and giraffes.
Supporting Local Communities Through Tourism
Conservation efforts at Ajai are closely linked to opportunities for surrounding communities.
Led by Herbert Byaruhanga, the African Institute of Tourism and Field Guiding trained 88 community members in tourist guiding, customer care, wildlife interpretation and tourism entrepreneurship.
The training was designed to prepare participants for employment and business opportunities that may emerge as tourism develops around the reserve.
This was an encouraging example of how conservation and community development can support one another.
Birdwatching and Sound Recording at Ajai
Whenever the training schedule allowed, I found time to explore the reserve’s birdlife.
Ajai proved particularly interesting for recording bird calls as part of the Big Year of African Bird Sounds, an initiative supporting the documentation of African bird vocalisations.
These recordings can contribute to resources used by Merlin Bird ID, the bird identification application developed by the Cornell Lab of Ornithology.
Unfortunately, our limited time did not allow us to conduct a proper search for the Shoebill, one of Africa’s most sought-after birds.
However, conversations about the species revealed interesting connections between local communities, traditional beliefs and wetland wildlife.
Among some Lugbara communities, the shoebill is reportedly known as Gumako, meaning “do not laugh at me”, a name associated with traditional beliefs among fishing communities.
Among some Madi communities around Moyo and Adjumani, the bird is known as Onziga, a reference to its unusual appearance.
These names and stories deserve further documentation.
They offer valuable insights into how local knowledge, cultural traditions and wildlife conservation intersect in Uganda’s wetland landscapes.
Moyo and the Bird-Friendly Penthouse Inn
From Ajai, we travelled through Arua, Maracha, Koboko and Yumbe before reaching Moyo, a town near Uganda’s border with South Sudan.
We were hosted by Dr Jimmy Opigo at the Penthouse Inn, located on the outskirts of Moyo town.
The property is surrounded by flowering plants deliberately grown to attract birds.
The results were impressive.
The following morning, I woke to the calls of Beautiful Sunbirds and Speckled Pigeons.
In places such as Murchison Falls National Park, the Beautiful Sunbird can be difficult to observe closely or photograph.
At Penthouse Inn, however, the flowering gardens bring these colourful birds down to eye level, creating excellent opportunities for birdwatching and photography.
The experience demonstrated how even a small hospitality establishment can improve the visitor experience by planting suitable flowers and creating bird-friendly spaces.
Searching for Dybowski’s Twinspot at Mount Otzi
Having travelled so far north, we could not miss the opportunity to visit Mount Otzi Central Forest Reserve.
Our main target was Dybowski’s Twinspot (Euschistospiza dybowskii), an exceptionally rare bird in Uganda.
For all three of us, seeing this species would have been a lifer — a bird recorded for the first time in our personal birding experience.
Dybowski’s Twinspot occurs mainly in parts of West and Central Africa. In Uganda, it is considered an extremely rare visitor, with records concentrated in northwestern forest habitats, particularly around Mount Otzi and Mount Kei.
We searched enthusiastically, exploring suitable habitats and remaining alert for any sign of the bird.
Unfortunately, we were unsuccessful.
But that is part of the beauty of birdwatching.
Nature offers no guarantees, and every missed species provides another reason to return.
Mount Otzi certainly deserves another visit, ideally with more time to explore its habitats and document its remarkable birdlife.
Arra Fishing Lodge: A Hidden Jewel on the Albert Nile
Figure 2: Location of Arra on a peninsula along the River Nile. Photo by Dr Jimmy.
We continued through beautiful landscapes towards Adjumani.
At the Laropi ferry crossing, we stopped for a delicious local lunch of dried-fish stew served with banda linya, a traditional cassava bread.
Arra Fishing Lodge was only a three-minute drive from the ferry landing.
On arrival, the manager welcomed us warmly and offered each of us a bottle of cold water, a much-appreciated gesture in the intense afternoon heat.
The lodge occupies a scenic peninsula overlooking the blue waters of the Albert Nile, surrounded by natural woodland.
Its location offers some of the most beautiful sunrise and sunset views we have experienced along the Nile in Uganda.
Sunset Birdwatching on the Nile
That evening, we took a sunset boat cruise.
As the sun slowly disappeared below the horizon, cormorants and egrets gathered to roost above the papyrus vegetation.
The stillness of the river, the glowing evening sky and the silhouettes of waterbirds created an unforgettable scene.
It was one of those moments that reminded us why exploring unfamiliar destinations can be so rewarding.
An Unexpected Encounter with Greyish Eagle-Owl
Early the following morning, we woke at 5:00 a.m. for what we believed was a scheduled video call for the International Conference for Women Birders.
Only later did we discover that the meeting was actually planned for the following day.
Our mistake, however, turned into an unexpected birding opportunity.
While outside in the darkness, we heard an unfamiliar owl calling nearby.
We followed the sound, carefully considered the possibilities and eventually identified it as a Greyish Eagle-Owl.
The bird later perched on one of the pillars near the riverbank, providing excellent views.
It was an exciting encounter and another reminder that birdwatching opportunities can arise when least expected.
Birding, Adventure and Tourism Opportunities
Arra Fishing Lodge offers a variety of visitor experiences, including sunset and sunrise cruises, sport fishing on the Albert Nile, water cycling, rock climbing, nature walks and birdwatching.
Its spacious grounds also make it a promising destination for staff retreats, team-building programmes and small conferences.
At 6:00 a.m., guided by Jimmy, we climbed to a raised rocky viewpoint overlooking the Nile.
We watched as the sun slowly rose above the horizon, spreading golden light across the river.
As we admired the landscape, the powerful call of a Grey-headed Bushshrike echoed through the surrounding vegetation.
I managed to obtain an excellent sound recording of the bird, making it one of the highlights of the trip.
After coffee, we continued birding before returning for breakfast at approximately 11:00 a.m.
Although our visit was short, we compiled an impressive checklist of 124 bird species and obtained several valuable bird sound recordings.
The experience gave us a much deeper appreciation of West Nile’s birdwatching potential.
View our complete bird checklist: https://ebird.org/tripreport/566317
The Journey Home: Why West Nile Deserves More Attention
We began our return journey through Adjumani, Atiak and Gulu before continuing to Kampala.
As we travelled, I reflected on the remarkable diversity of landscapes, wildlife and cultural experiences we had encountered.
Improving road connections are making West Nile increasingly accessible, creating opportunities to connect the region with Murchison Falls National Park, Kidepo Valley National Park and other destinations in northern Uganda.
Our journey confirmed that West Nile deserves a stronger position on Uganda’s tourism map.
The region offers a compelling combination of wildlife conservation, specialist birdwatching, cultural heritage, traditional cuisine, river adventures and welcoming local communities.
With responsible investment, improved destination marketing, professional guide training and continued conservation support, West Nile has the potential to develop into one of Uganda’s most rewarding emerging tourism circuits.
Figure 3: Photograph by Bonny Kadabara.
We will certainly return, with more time, better recording equipment and renewed determination to search for Dybowski’s Twinspot and the Shoebill.
For adventurous travellers interested in exploring the region, Race the Nile is an approximately 800-kilometre cycling challenge across West Nile and along the River Nile, scheduled for 23–27 November 2026.
More information: https://racethenile.com/
Acknowledgements
I am sincerely grateful to the Uganda Wildlife Authority and everyone who helped make this memorable journey possible.
Special thanks go to:
- Davis Rukundo, Chairperson of the Bird Guides’ Club
- Herbert Byaruhanga, Bird Uganda Safaris
- Boniface Kadabara, West Nile Birding and Safaris
- Dr Jimmy Opigo, proprietor of Arra Fishing Lodge and Penthouse Inn
Your hospitality, guidance and support made this journey both enjoyable and meaningful.
West Nile left us with wonderful memories, valuable bird observations and a strong desire to return.